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First prepare the cuttlefish (or squid – they are done pretty much in the same way). If whole, and uncleaned, do this in the sink as the black ink can make the whole process very messy.

The head, once skinned, is brilliantly white and can be thinly sliced, then pan-fried or poached. Cuttlefish tentacles, on the other hand, are tough and are best casseroled with garlic ...