you’ll find bamboo trays loaded with dried scallops, bottles heaving with large gossamer sheaths of fish maw; sharply rotund, plump abalone in plastic casings as well as tiny little dried shrimp ...

Preheat oven to 180ºC. Clean the fish thoroughly and then rub a little salt into the skin. Put the fish on a rack in the oven and leave for 15 minutes. Turn the oven off, leaving the fish in place.