Ash deserts as far as the eye can see, knee-deep crossings of icy glacier rivers, ever-changing landscapes - and all that in four days, far from civilization in the south of Iceland.The Laugavegur is ...

You had to catch a plane to Kangerlussuaq, a tiny town 320 kilometres away and the site of a former US Air Force base and, from there, fly in a hair-raising turboprop. Even the official visitor ...